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Boarding

21:18 Sun 05 Feb 2006. Updated: 08:12 12 Aug 2010
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I was in the ocean for the first time in months today, and it was really fantastic. Beautiful day, lots of sun, and the sky over the Pacific was gorgeous. It was also fairly warm in the sun, which is always great because it means that getting into your wetsuit and walking through the sand is enough to make you too hot, and thus eager to get into the cold water.

The first couple of waves were excellent. I was lucky and caught some that were very strong and a lot of fun. After that it definitely died down, and the undertow started getting stronger, which is always unnerving at Ocean Beach considering the number of surfers and swimmers who have died out there… but then, they do go a lot further out than we do on the boogie boards, so we’re not taking that kind of risk.

I any case, that’s something I really need to start doing every weekend again, because it’s so great to be in the sea. I still don’t have ny real desire to graduate to surfing—the casual-and-fun boarding is enough for me.

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